The Back Bump of a Chain: Where to Put Your Hook in a Foundation Chain

The back bump of a chain is the little ridge of yarn running along the back of your foundation chain, one bump behind each V. Working your first row into the back bump only leaves every V untouched on the bottom edge, so it looks as neat as the top edge. Working into the top loop is quicker to find but gives a looser, lacier edge. Both are correct, and a pattern that does not say which one to use is letting you choose.

The anatomy of a chain: Vs on the front, bumps on the back

With the smooth side of a chain facing you, you see a row of little Vs, like a braid. Each V is one chain stitch, and it is made of two strands of yarn:

• The top loop (sometimes called the front loop): the upper arm of the V.
• The bottom loop: the lower arm of the V.

Flip it over and you see a single line of raised bumps, one per chain. That is the back bump, also called the back bar or back ridge. It is the third strand of every chain, and most beginners never notice it.

Three ways to work into a foundation chain

1. Top loop only

Insert your hook under just the top arm of the V. This is the easiest loop to find, which is why many beginners use it by default. The result is a slightly loose, stretchy bottom edge, and the chain can twist as you work along it. Fine when the edge will be hidden or sewn down.

2. Top loop and back bump together

Insert your hook under two strands: the top loop and the bump behind it. This is the sturdiest option and gives a firm edge that will not stretch out. It takes a little more effort on a tight chain.

3. Back bump only

Turn the chain so the bumps face you and slide the hook under each bump. Every V stays intact along the bottom, so the starting edge looks like a finished row of stitches rather than a raw chain. This is the method to choose when the bottom edge will be on show, or when you plan to add a border later, because the untouched Vs give you clean stitches to work into.

Which one should you use?

If the pattern names a loop, follow it. If it says nothing, use this rule of thumb:

• Edge will be seen (a blanket, a cape, a flat accessory): back bump only.
• Edge needs to be firm (a bag strap, anything that takes weight): top loop and back bump.
• Edge will be hidden or seamed: whichever you find easiest, usually the top loop.

The one real rule is consistency. Pick a method for the whole foundation row and stick to it, because switching halfway makes the edge visibly uneven.

Which chain do you start in?

When a pattern says "ch 9, skip 1" or "sc in the second chain from the hook", you count backwards from the hook:

1. The loop sitting on your hook is not a chain. Never count it.
2. The first V next to the hook is the first chain. That is the one you skip.
3. Your first stitch goes into the second V.

The skipped chain acts as the turning chain, giving the first stitch room to stand at the right height. Taller stitches skip more chains, as explained in our guide to turning chains and why the number changes.

You can see this in action in Yon Crochet lessons. Echo the Bat's wing starts with the pattern line "ch9, skip 1, 3 sl st, 5 sc", and in the lesson you skip the first V and slip stitch into the second. Rocky the Earth's moss piece starts the same way with "ch5, skip 1, 3 hdc".

Why does this matter in amigurumi?

Most amigurumi starts from a magic ring, but flat details like wings, capes and leaves start from a foundation chain, and so do oval shapes such as some feet, muzzles and bases. With an oval you work up one side of the chain and then back down the other side, into the loops you left behind on the first pass. If you worked the back bump on the way up, the full Vs are waiting for you on the way back, and both sides of the oval look the same.

Tips for a chain that is easy to work into

• Chain loosely. A tight chain hides the back bump and makes every insertion a struggle. If your chains are always tight, try making the foundation chain with a hook one size larger, then switch back for the first row.
• Keep it untwisted. Before you start the first row, lay the chain flat with all the bumps on one side. A twist halfway along will show in the finished piece.
• Count twice. Count the Vs on the front, not the bumps on the back, and leave out the slip knot and the loop on your hook. On long foundations, place a stitch marker every 10 chains. Our guide to counting crochet stitches has more tricks.

Abbreviations still fuzzy? Keep our crochet terms glossary open in another tab. Chain counts like "multiple of 4 + 2" are covered in stitch multiples explained.

Practise reading the chain line before you pick up a hook

Knowing where the hook goes is technique. Knowing what "ch9, skip 1, 3 sl st, 5 sc" asks for is pattern reading. The Pattern Trainer in the Yon Crochet app teaches you to read crochet notation round by round, and our free crochet abbreviations chart explains every term you meet.

When you are ready to put it into practice, each character kit in our beginner crochet kit collection comes with anti-splitting Yon Yarn, an ergonomic hook and stitch markers, plus video lessons in both right-hand and left-hand versions. Ready for something a little more advanced? The wings of Echo the Bat begin with exactly the kind of short chain covered here. Other questions? See our FAQ.